The Rolex Inventor – Hans Wilsdorf
The story of Rolex begins with an extraordinary man: Hans Wilsdorf, born on March 22, 1881 in Kulmbach, Bavaria. His life was marked by strokes of fate from an early age - at just twelve years old he lost both parents and was placed in the care of his uncle. After a commercial apprenticeship, Wilsdorf worked as a foreign language correspondent for a renowned import and export company that also traded in watches. This experience awakened his passion for watchmaking and paved the way for a groundbreaking career.
In London, the centre of the industrial world at the time, Wilsdorf founded the company Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd., a wholesaler of Swiss watches. He imported high-quality watch movements from the Aegler factory in Biel and sold them successfully in England.
The rise of Rolex to legend
Old Rolex Explorer advertisement © Rolex
In 1908, Hans Wilsdorf had the name " Rolex " entered in the commercial register. He later explained: "Rolex sounds good, is easy to remember and is pronounced the same in all European languages." With this visionary choice of name, he laid the foundation for a brand that stands for excellence worldwide. Rolex was also the first watch brand to write its name on the dial - a first that later became a trademark.
The iconic five-pointed crown, now inseparable from Rolex, was introduced in 1940. It symbolizes the five fingers of a hand - a tribute to the craftsmanship and precision that goes into every Rolex watch.
Innovations that revolutionized watchmaking
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Oyster canal float Mercedes Gleitze  |
Prince Brancard Ref. 862  |
Hans Wilsdorf's vision :
Hans Wilsdorf put everything on one card: the wristwatch. While pocket watches still dominated in his day, he was convinced that the future belonged to wristwatches. But his vision was met with scepticism. Many people thought wristwatches were too small, too fragile, imprecise, unmanly and too sensitive to dust and moisture. To dispel these prejudices, Wilsdorf had the precision of his watches certified by independent institutions. As early as 1910, a Rolex wristwatch received the world's first official chronometer certificate from the Swiss testing institute for watch rate controls in Biel. Four years later, the British Kew Observatory awarded a Rolex wristwatch the prestigious Class A precision award - a recognition that had previously been reserved exclusively for marine chronometers.
Relocation to Geneva and the Rolex Oyster
In 1919, high import taxes in England forced Wilsdorf to move his company to Geneva, the center of watchmaking. There he founded "Montres Rolex SA" and devoted himself to a groundbreaking innovation: the development of a completely waterproof case. In 1926, he finally presented the Rolex Oyster, the first hermetically sealed and waterproof case. To prove the reliability of this innovation, Wilsdorf had the English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wear an Oyster during her attempt to cross the English Channel. Although the swim attempt failed, the Rolex survived the challenge unscathed.
Wilsdorf knew how to use the media hype surrounding this event. He made the Rolex Oyster a symbol of unrivalled quality and robustness, which brought the brand worldwide fame. This event also marked the beginning of the use of testimonials as a marketing tool - a concept that has continued to shape Rolex successfully to this day.
Old Main Site © Rolex
Patent for the screwed housing :
Just one month after the Oyster was introduced, Wilsdorf filed a patent for a case with a screw-down winding crown. This design is still an unmistakable feature of many Rolex models today. Since then, the addition of "Oyster" to the model names has stood for particularly robust and waterproof wristwatches, a quality feature that still shapes the brand's identity today.
Rolex and Marketing :
Rolex recognized the importance of marketing early on and established itself as a pioneer in this field. While many companies today rely on prominent advertising, Rolex already associated its watches with extraordinary adventures and achievements. Rolex timepieces accompanied some of the most significant milestones in history: the first crossing of the English Channel, the legendary ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, and the exploration of the Mariana Trench. One impressive example is the record-breaking dive by Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh in 1960. Equipped with a specially developed Rolex, their submersible Bathyscaphe reached a depth of 10,916 meters. This achievement not only underlined the robustness of the brand, but also definitively made Rolex a symbol of precision and reliability.
Through this connection with the achievements of extraordinary personalities in sport, science, culture and discovery, Rolex became more than just a watch brand – it became synonymous with excellence.
© Rolex
Technical innovations :
Rolex also set new standards in technical innovations. In 1931, Hans Wilsdorf developed the revolutionary 360-degree central rotor, the so-called Perpetual Rotor. This system made it possible to wind the watch using only the movement of the wrist. The first watch to use this technology was the patented "Bubble Back", which is still considered a milestone in the history of automatic watches.
First Rolex "Bubble Back" © Rolex
The Explorers (1954):
In 1954, Rolex finally presented the Explorer, a watch that was specially created for extreme conditions. It is resistant to extreme temperature fluctuations and impresses with its simplicity. The Explorer is considered the epitome of functional Rolex tool watches and is an indispensable companion for adventurers all over the world.
The first fully functional automatic wristwatch :
The ROLEX Oyster Perpetual was the first fully functional automatic wristwatch with a rotor, the so-called Perpetual Rotor. This innovative mechanism became one of the three outstanding quality features of the Oyster, alongside its chronometric precision and water resistance. The Perpetual Rotor can rotate on its axis indefinitely and allows the movement to be wound simply by moving the wrist up and down. This groundbreaking invention remains at the heart of every modern automatic watch to this day.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 © Chrono24
Introduction of "Rolesor" (1933)
In 1933, Rolex registered the name "Rolesor" to describe the unique combination of gold and stainless steel used in many ROLEX wristwatches. This combination of materials became a distinctive and aesthetic trademark of the brand and remains a cornerstone of the Oyster collection to this day.
The Datejust (1945) :
With the introduction of the "Datejust" in 1945, Rolex combined all of its groundbreaking innovations in a single watch. The Datejust offered the highest precision, impressive water resistance, an automatic self-winding mechanism and, for the first time, a date window at the 3 o'clock position on the dial. Particularly iconic is the magnifying glass placed above the date window, the so-called "Cyclops eye", which remains an unmistakable feature of the Datejust models to this day.
Rolex Datejust Ref. 4467 © Collectorsquare
The Day-Date (1956) :
In 1956, Rolex presented the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date at the Basel Watch Fair, the world's first wristwatch to display not only the date but also the full day of the week. The Day-Date quickly achieved cult status and is considered not only timelessly elegant but also a first-class investment. This watch has been admired by numerous famous people, including John F. Kennedy, Ronald Reagan, Martin Luther King, the Dalai Lama, Eric Clapton, Plácido Domingo, Nadine Capellmann and Jackie Stewart.
The first Day-Date from 1956 © Petitegeneve
The Milgauss (1956) :
In the same year, another masterpiece of the Oyster family was introduced: the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss. This watch was specially designed to withstand strong magnetic fields, which made it particularly popular with scientists at the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN). The Milgauss impressed with its technical innovation and high level of functionality, making it another milestone in the history of ROLEX.
Rolex watches from 1953
Development of the revolutionary new model began in the early 1950s, with production and testing starting in 1953. The first models were officially presented at Baselworld in 1954. However, Rolex itself dates the birth year of its iconic diver's watch to 1953 - the year in which the first series models were completed.
A special highlight from this year was the Ref. 6202 Turn-O-Graph, which is often considered the forerunner of the legendary Submariner and celebrated its brief but memorable debut in 1953.
1953 also marked the birth of a legendary trilogy: the Turn-O-Graph, the Explorer and the Submariner. These three models symbolize Rolex's innovative power and pioneering spirit.
The Rolex GMT-Master: A milestone in pilot's watches
With the advent of transcontinental flights in the 1950s, the demand for functional watches that met the needs of modern pilots increased. At the initiative of Pan American Airlines (Pan Am), Rolex developed the GMT-Master – a watch that allows two time zones simultaneously.
The striking design
One of the most striking features of the GMT-Master was the two-tone blue and red bezel, which quickly earned the nickname "Pepsi". This color scheme not only provided a clear distinction between day and night hours, but also became a cult symbol for frequent flyers and adventurers.
Innovation meets tradition
Despite numerous new editions, the GMT-Master has lost none of its original fascination. Similar to the Porsche 911, the designers at Rolex have succeeded in equipping the latest models with modern technologies while retaining their classic character - without appearing retro.
Hans Wilsdorf: The visionary genius behind Rolex
In 1960, Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary founder of Rolex, died. He left behind an impressive legacy that is not only characterized by technical innovations, but also by timeless design. The GMT-Master is a striking example of his influence on the world of watches.
Rolex Daytona: The watch of racing legends
In 1963, Rolex introduced the legendary Daytona – named after the city of Daytona in Florida, which is known for its rich racing and motorsport history. Since 1962, Rolex has been the main sponsor of the famous Daytona Beach race. One of the most famous racing drivers on this track, Sir Malcolm Campbell, enthusiastically wore a Rolex Oyster. In a telegram to Rolex, he praised the watch's exceptional robustness:
"Worn a ROLEX watch yesterday during the record attempt, still running well despite heavy use."
The Daytona Cosmograph: The benchmark for sports chronographs
The Daytona Cosmograph is still considered one of the best sports chronographs in the world. Its characteristic arrangement of the sub-dials - for hours and minutes at three and nine o'clock - ensures outstanding clarity and functionality. In addition, the watch is COSC-certified, a seal of quality from the Swiss testing institute that stands for the highest level of accuracy and guarantees deviations of just a few seconds per day.
The Paul Newman Daytona: The Most Coveted Vintage Rolex
A special highlight of the Daytona series is the so-called Paul Newman Daytona . This variant, known for its striking "Exotic Dial" face, is one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex watches. Over the last 25 years, the market value of this watch has multiplied - today it is traded for several times its original retail price.
Steve McQueen and the Rolex Explorer II
The name of cult actor and racing driver Steve McQueen is often associated with the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655. In fact, there are no pictures showing him wearing this watch. However, it is proven that McQueen wore a Rolex Submariner - another symbol of Rolex's timeless elegance and functionality.
At Rolex, discretion is paramount
One thing is certain: ROLEX is one of the most prestigious brands in the world. However, exact sales figures are not published - discretion is ROLEX's top priority. It was only when the 158,000 square meter production facility opened in Plan-les-Quates in 2005 that the size of the industrial operation became apparent.
The brand with the crown in its emblem is one of the few companies that manufactures almost all of the parts of its watches itself. ROLEX, which employs around 6,000 people, is said to be the largest gold processor in Switzerland. Nothing is left to chance during the processing. From the casting of the gold alloys, e.g. the patented red gold alloy "Everose", to the mechanical processing and the assembly of the components of the movement, case, dial and bracelet, everything is done in-house at ROLEX.
According to reliable estimates, ROLEX produces around 800,000 watches annually, plus around 200,000 watches from its sister brand Tudor.
Tudor – the more affordable wristwatch from Rolex
Tudor was founded by Wilsdorf in 1926 as an alternative: "I have been thinking for several years about producing a wristwatch that could be sold by our retailers at a lower price than our ROLEX, but which would be just as reliable. For this reason we founded the company Montres Tudor SA"
Outro:
The story of Rolex is that of a visionary entrepreneur who created not just a brand, but a global symbol of excellence. Hans Wilsdorf, who founded Rolex, showed extraordinary foresight and courage to set new standards right from the start of his career. With his unwavering passion for precision and innovation, he succeeded in establishing one of the most famous and sought-after watch brands in the world.
From the first waterproof case of the Rolex Oyster to technical masterpieces such as the Perpetual Rotor and the groundbreaking GMT-Master, every Rolex watch represents uncompromising quality that stands the test of time. Today, Rolex watches are not only functional timepieces, but also cult objects that have become synonymous with success, style and timeless luxury around the world.
Thanks to its visionary ideas and relentless pursuit of perfection, Rolex has secured its place in the history of watchmaking forever. And so the brand remains a fascinating legacy that will be admired and celebrated for many generations to come - the epitome of luxury, precision and unstoppable innovation.
Rolex – more than a watch, a legendary heritage.